Lu Nello

LuNello is a very predictable restaurant, and thats a good thing. Its the type of place where you can bring guests with the assurance that the food, atmosphere and service will be high-quality, which is no small comfort in an increasingly uncertain world. For 19years, chef/owner Louis Seger has turned out stylish Italian-inspired meals. In 2007, the operation moved from Totowa to larger quarters with more parking space in Cedar Grove, which was a vast improvement. The intimate bar/lounge is completely separate from the dining rooms, which ensures the integrity of the white-tablecloth atmosphere. The decor is elegant, but low-key in muted tones; the food provides the flash and color here. The noise level in general is moderate; even when every table is full on weekends, its still bearable. An acoustic ceiling and thick carpeting help soak up the sound, making conversation generally pleasant, rather than leaving you hoarse. A tradition at LuNello is the dramatic recitation of specials, which can be entertaining but frustrating as well. We timed it at our table: three and a half minutes, give or take a few seconds. Heres the problem: Its impossible to remember all (or even very many) of the specials, which means calling the waiter back for a replay of some items. Add to that inconvenience the fact that prices are never mentioned. Im glad I asked the cost of the stone crab appetizer special. It was a budget-busting $24.95, which means I didnt order it. Imagine if you hadnt bothered to inquire and learned the price only when it was printed on the bill — ouch. This is the way its always been done at LuNello, and Im guessing it wont change, but I suggest a printed list. Then if the waiter wants to recite a few items to keep his acting chops, great; at least patrons will have a frame of reference, complete with prices. The specials are fun and often very imaginative. Yet there are so many appealing things on the regular menu that deciding what to order is delici